Cut to the chase: Kathy swam in the sea yesterday! A quiet, empty cove on the west side of Siros, tucked behind Varvaroussa rock, hot sun and light wind was enough to convince Kath that it was time to test the Aegean. Summer has officially arrived in Greece!
We left the bustle of Aegina harbour 5 days ago having gotten the air conditioning system checked over and installing a new starter battery for the little diesel generator that will power the AC when we eventually snap and can’t take the heat. At this stage it’s still perfectly comfortable at night, excellent sleeping weather with a nice breeze flowing through the cabin when at anchor.
We’ve had excellent sailing conditions each day, doing 25-30 miles (an easy 4-5 hour work day), typically starting out under motor power, but on a beam reach in 13-15 kts by afternoon, and shortening sails when the sun bumps up the power.
First stop was Cape Sounion, the point of land south of Athens, a good jumping-off point to the Cyclades islands. We made it safely across the busy shipping lanes that lead to Athens, with freighters and ferries looking menacing. What must it be like to drive a truck down the highway and not be allowed to hit any mosquitos? Those freighter captains must have some crazy stories. So many sailboats in these waters in the summer!
We had hoped to park in the shadow of the Temple of Poseidon,
but settled for a drive-by the next morning after a calm night around the corner at Palaia Fokaia. Us and one other boat dispersed in a giant bay, and then six lads on a charter boat park 100 ft away from us. Cozy.
The sail to our first Cyclades island of Kythnos was perfect, and by the time we arrived hoping to anchor in Fikiadha Bay, the wind was gusting hard and the bay was cluttered with boats, so we chose a slightly less gusty spot in nearby Episkopis Cove and spent the afternoon listening to the disco music drift out from the beach bar and watching other boats settle around us. A windy night to test the anchor, but the GPS alarm stayed quiet and our neighbours caused no trouble.
In the morning we putted back over to Fikiadha, and as boats headed out to their new destination we hunted for a good anchor-set and a bit of elbow room. Our 4th try seemed to do the trick, as snorkeling on each attempt showed some rock or shallow when considering possible wind shifts, the neighbouring boats, and the nature of the seafloor that the anchor had buried (or not buried) into. But we got settled, and then watched the bay pack tight around us. When a pesky catamaran finally decided they had parked too close to Coral and buggered off (I used my bigboy voice for one “you’re in a bad spot”), we hit the taverna ashore for lunch and gazed down at Coral.
You can see why this place draws a crowd. Things thinned out considerably for the overnight, the wind disappeared, and we dinghied ashore at dusk for our first beach campfire. Love the campfire. Staring at the flames, I felt a tingle and peered past the light to see our dinghy gently drifting 15 ft offshore, having slipped quietly off the fine pebble beach. A nice little adrenaline rush and a beautiful night swim, and another lesson drilled home. Er, whew.
And so with dinghy securely hoisted back on the davits, we sailed east to Siros yesterday to our private retreat. Blue green water, secluded beach, happy anchor, smell of wild oregano. A rock blocking my sunset. We’re having it removed today.
The morning was perfect enough to inspire another swim,
and now we are underway en route to Dhespotico on the west side of Antiparos. Sounds fun!
I’m amazed by how barren the place looks. Makes Newfoundland look like a rain forest. Emphasis on rain of course.
It’s true, the visuals and smell often remind me of the desert in the western US.
I loved visiting Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon. So spectacular.
Despotico? Really?
I hear the Mayor there’s a bit much…