Moms in the Ionian, part 2

Did I mention the jumping fish in Ormos Valtou?  The place was lousy with them!  Escapees from the adjacent fish farm, perhaps?  That’s some Darwinism for you.  We departed our quiet bay for points south, Platarias harbour to be precise.  After a lovely lunch in town, Mike decided to try kiting in this big, beautiful bay.  The first attempt was not very successful, wind wasn’t quite strong enough, but on the second try he went like gangbusters!  Thelma was delighted to witness her boy on the water.

 

Platarias

Bellies full, fridge full, and diesel tanks full, the next day we continued south to Mourtos, also on the mainland.  It’s the launching point to explore the Sivota Islands.  We did some actual sailing on this leg and our crew were stellar!  No tears and no sickness–a success!

Thelma’s the Queen of the world!
Thelma hard at work on the winch
The ladies in transit

We anchored in a narrow channel between an island and the mainland. Mike and I went ashore for a walk and a drink at the beach resort and met this guy hanging out.

The next day we went for a little jaunt *cough* dealt with holding tanks *cough* and then returned and tied back in the same channel we had been in the previous night.  Nice clear water for swimming, tiny pipefish swimming around.  Apparently they hang out vertically in the weeds to disguise themselves.  Also saw some weird, mangy-looking clams.

Next stop–Gaios, Paxos!  We made Thelma wear a life jacket because she was scampering all over the boat like an old salt.  An old salt who can’t swim, that is.

  

We went to the dock in Gaios so the ladies could disembark and explore the adorable little town at their leisure.  Ma bought me a nice terrycloth bathrobe–very cosy to wrap up in after swimming now that the air is cooling a bit.  Thanks Mama!

Thelma and the cats hanging out near the fish market

Ma and I went for pizza for lunch and Mike and Thelma walked to the beach to go swimming.  Mom also found a bookstore to replenish her stash–no one reads more than my mother!  Mom was too full to join us for supper, so Mike, Thelma and I went to Pan and Theo, just across from our spot at the dock.  Part of my master plan was to get their WiFi password, but the signal was too weak in the restaurant to get anything done, let alone on the boat.  Foiled again.  Dinner was tasty, though, and Thelma tried her first moussaka.  She seemed more enamoured with Mike’s baked eggplant, truth be told.

Leaving Gaios

The next day it was back to Mourtos to tie back again. Most of these movement decisions are based on the wind and weather forecast.  Mike is addicted to WindyTV, and rightly so.  We were closer to the resort in Mourtos, so it was back to the bar to have a drink and get the WiFi password.  Ran into some old friends.

When we set the anchor Mike and I were not completely satisfied with it, but we planned to revisit it later.  Oops, forgot to do that.  Flash forward to 2am–thunderstorms and wind set in, Mike went up top to watch the show, checked the anchor, it wasn’t holding, so we ended up abandoning our spot and anchoring out in the channel.  The moms were aflutter, and my poor mom banged her mouth on the woodwork while she was digging out a raincoat to offer me.  Ouch!  The last thing I said to Ma before going up to work on the anchor issue was “Don’t let Thelma come up here”!”  To her credit, she tried, but Thelma couldn’t resist and popped up offering to help.  Second try with the anchor worked, and we returned to bed sopping wet, but feeling more secure.

Heading north, we returned to Ormos Valtou, though the second bay in, last time we were in the third bay.  This bay is huge and there were only a couple other boats, which was surprising since the bay is so sheltered.  We enjoyed our solitude, and Thelma watched a swimmer she swore must be an Olympian.

The next morning we returned to Corfu and anchored in the bay just south of the Old Fort.

 

Mike decided to hang back and nap, so he dropped me and the moms off at the yacht club under the Old Fort.  This dinghy ride was the first time I saw my mom blanche–fast and bumpy!  She was a trouper, though, and found her happy place on the floor of the dinghy.

We walked through the local park and proceeded to explore Corfu Town, a beautiful spot with French and Venetian influences. The old town of the city is a UNESCO world heritage site.

Thelma thought the hanging laundry was charming, but Mother was unimpressed as she sees that at home every day.

We stopped for lunch along the Liston, which was built to mimic the Rue de Rivoli in Paris. This is my fave photo of the trip!

The ladies completed their vacation shopping and I bought a lovely mother-of-pearl ring to serve as an interim wedding ring.  My actual ring is buried in a box in Ontario, but it’s funny how after years of not wearing it because of my painting business now my hand feels naked without my new ring.  I am NOT wearing it all the time, though–sailing + ring = missing finger!

The next morning we returned to our starting point at Gouvia Marina.  We rented a car for the next morning’s 5am trip to the airport and did some groceries.  Mike and I had planned on taking the ladies out for a big final dinner, but they were all played out, so we ate leftovers and had an early night.

The next morning I got up to say my farewells and sent Mike off to chauffeur them to the airport and make sure they got on their flight to Athens.  Here is Mama leaving the boat looking adorbs in her traveling outfit–hope Father Gilbert liked his hat!!

The boat felt pretty empty after two weeks of mom time.  We sure enjoyed the visit!

Moms in the House!

I had a whirlwind trip back to Canada for Ma and Pa’s 50th wedding anniversary party.  Apologies to those I did not visit with, I wasn’t in any one spot for very long.  We’ll be home for a couple weeks over Christmas and will do some proper socializing.

I boarded my bus to Athens early August 14th and waved to Coral with a tear in my eye as the bus passed by.

Goodbye Coral…

The bus ride was tolerable as the young couple sitting next to me in the back row got off after an hour, so the following four hours I had room to stretch.  Upon arrival in Athens I checked into the lovely Athens Cypria Hotel.  With an Acropolis view from my room I was feeling pretty worldly.

Acropolis from Athens Cypria Hotel

Perusing Google Maps for a place to eat lunch close by, I stumbled on the delightful Taqueria Maya.  Tasty carnitas and a great margarita–so good I went back for dinner!  I wandered around for awhile, but didn’t do any serious touristing.  I did stop by the Hellenic Parliament to see the soldiers with the funny shoes and funny walk (no disrespect meant to the Greek folks).  A better photo of one of these guys will appear later.

    

The next morning I embarked on my own little odyssey back to Canada.  We flew over Greenland!  If I were an evil Bond villain I would leave my enemies on a fjord in Greenland.  Bleak stuff.

Greenland from above

Canada was a whirlwind of activity: shopping for things we can’t get in Greece (paint can openers, tack cloths, peanut butter), setting up Mimi’s new work computer (seriously, can anyone recommend a good IT crew in New Brunswick for this girl?), paying bills, fighting with the City of Ottawa parking ombudsman (doing my best to get you fired, Eric), and feting Ma and Pa.

Happy 50th Ma and Pa!

Before I knew it, it was time to return to Greece with our moms in tow.  Thelma and I left from Ottawa and met Mom in Toronto.  Toward the end of a loooong flight over the ocean we saw a brilliant earth-curving sunrise.

 

Sunrise from the plane

We landed in Athens at 9:30am and hopped on the subway to the Plaka district and our hotel, the freaking adorable 360 Degrees Hotel.   Everything was so clean with retro cool splashes, but a perfect modern bathroom.  Highly recommended!  We had a triple room that suited us perfectly, and the rooftop restaurant and bar has unparalleled views of the Acropolis at night.  Staff was beyond helpful and kind. I guess I should transcribe these raves to TripAdvisor.

At the 360 Degree Hotel, Athens

In a vain attempt to fend off jetlag, we went for lunch and a wander.  We ate at a classic taverna:  club sandwich for Ma, stuffed tomatoes for Thelma, and, as always, chicken souvlaki for me.  I shared it with this kitty.

Acropolis kitty

We debated climbing the hill to see the Acropolis, but it was so hot we decided it looked lovely from afar and stayed on flat-ish ground.

Gate of Athena Archegetis on the west side of the Roman Agora of Athens in Plaka
Church of Panagia Kapnikarea
Mama’s new Euro kicks–for real!
Guard outside Parliament
Monastiraki Square
Agios Eleftherios Church

Hot and tired, we retired to the hotel for catnaps.  The ladies decreed that they were in for the night, but I had some more shoe shopping to do, so I left them to enjoy the A/C.  I revisited my taco place, bought some shoes and a nice small leather backpack, and when I returned to the hotel was shocked to hear from the guy at the desk that they had gone out!  I accused him of teasing me, but he assured me that they had really gone out.  I went for a drink at the rooftop bar and when I returned to the room they were back.  Apparently as the evening cooled off and Monastiraki Square started to fill up with people, they worried they were missing something and went out for ice cream.

The next morning we were out the door by 6:15 to catch our train to the airport.  At 6:20 our first disaster struck–Mom had an incident stepping on the down escalator.  I heard her hollering from above and looked up to see her shoes descending on their own.  She took a nice chunk out of her hand, but we managed to bandage her up and didn’t even miss our train.  I guess Nana was right to be scared of escalators.

We got to the airport with tons of time to spare and settled into our gate area with coffees and snacks.  Mom and Thelma both had little walkarounds, and I perused the excellent bookstore, leaving with my own copy of The Corfu Trilogy, which Mike is currently really enjoying.

Our gate changed shortly before boarding and we headed to the new gate.  The flight was soon called and folks lined up and started boarding.  I like to wait and get on last as I have nothing to stow up above.  When the plane was half boarded, Thelma stood up and said she was going for another little walkaround.  I processed this and then said “You realize our flight is in the middle of boarding?” Needless to say, no, she did not realize this.  She had a good laugh imagining us getting off the plane in Corfu without her, Mike wondering where the hell she was, her still wandering the concourse of Athens airport.  Close one.

Mike awaited us in Corfu with a tiny rental car–Thelma’s dreams from the past five months finally came true and mother and son were reunited!  Sorry I don’t have video of that precious moment.

We popped into Coral so the moms could get the lay of the land, had lunch at the marina, and then took a little drive across the island to Palaiokastritsa, a small beach town with a monastery.

We drove up to the monastery, but Thelma, Mike and I had a drink at the tavern next door while Ma checked out the monks.  Apparently eight monks still live there, but needless to say they were not out greeting tourists.  Back to the boat for a little dip in the marina pool.  They have great amenities at the marina.  They’d better for 70 Euro/night!

The next morning Mike took the rental car back and we spent a quiet afternoon recovering from our travels.  Mom and Thelma relaxed on Coral while Mike and I hit the pool again.  That night we went to a marina restaurant for a tasty dinner and hit the hay early.

In the morning we indulged in our last full showers for awhile, topped up the water tanks, and pulled out of our berth.  Ma and Thelma did great!

Reunited!
Ma peruses the cruising guide
Giant cruise ships
“New” fort in Corfu
Corfu Town
Old fort in Corfu

We headed south for a three hour motor, anchoring in Voukari for the night.  We got some swell from the boats beetling in and out of the harbour, but again, the ladies were troopers!  Mike and I went for a swim in the crystal clear water and then we all assumes our natural positions:  Thelma and Mike playing Scrabble, Mom in a lawnchair on the bow reading, and me reading the news on the internet but not allowed to speak the name Tr**p out loud.  Very frustrating in this day and age.

The next morning showed some wind coming our way in the forecast, so we headed over to the mainland to a sheltered bay just north of Igoumenitsa, Ormos Valtou.  Dinner was a Kathy and Mike classic, pasta with tomato sauce and fried dry salami.  Mike went for a solo late night swim, but the rest of us weren’t too tempted by the murky water in the bay.  Ma and Mike were both stung by wasps that got caught in their clothing.  I think she may be a smidge allergic, that sting site seems to be getting worse, not better.  Stay tuned…

Thelma woke up to the site of naked Germans swimming next door.  Quite an Ionian initiation, but we all need to suffer through it at some point.  Mike took the ladies for a short walk on shore–they were very brave in the dinghy!

The afternoon proved warm enough that we all went for a swim–you heard me, all of us!  I don’t have evidence of Thelma’s dip, but I made mom stay in the water so I could snap a pic.  Someone lost money in that betting pool!

We capped the afternoon with Mike and Thelma playing Scrabble, Mom reading, and me blogging.  I see a pattern here.  The excitement was that Thelma also got stung by a wasp.  Five months of Greek wasps on board and no stings, now three in three days!  Stay tuned, who knows what will happen next!